ISTANBUL
Explore Istanbul: Hagia Sophia. the Grand Bazaar, Lokum & Kebab
Once Byzantium, then Constantinople, then part of the Ottoman empire since their invasion in 1453, and now the capital of modern Turkey, Istanbul is where continents, empires, and faiths have met and clashed for more than two millennia.
Nowhere else do you find the echoes of aqueducts from Ancient Rome beside Ottoman bathhouses, the call to prayer reverberating from hills once mapped by Justinian’s architects, or backgammon boards clicking beside techno bars, meyhanes, and centuries-old bakeries still making simit at dawn.
The result is an urban palimpsest: churches turned into mosques, palaces that remember both Christian emperors and Ottoman sultans, and a skyline pierced by both minarets and domes.
It is not always easy.
And of course, if you're here to head further east to Cappadocia, for example, Istanbul is the perfect place to get acclimatised.
Here's what we think should form the core of your experience:
Mosques, Churches & the Architecture of Empire
At the heart of the city’s historical peninsula stands Hagia Sophia. First a Byzantine church, then an Ottoman mosque, then a museum, and now a mosque again. This is a structure that has outlived empires, earthquakes, and ideology. Step inside, and spend a moment with it: the scale, the dome, and the light.
Just opposite stands the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque), with its six minarets and cascading domes, still active and radiant with Iznik tilework in 20,000 shades of blue. And a short walk away is the underground Basilica Cistern, eerie and beautiful, where stone Medusa heads hold up forgotten columns in water once used to supply the imperial palace.
This triangle of the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and the Cistern forms the sacred and imperial heart of the old city.
And don’t miss the Süleymaniye Mosque either, a hilltop wonder built by Sinan, the master architect of the Ottoman golden age.
Bazaars, Neighbourhoods, & the Soul of Istanbul
Most likely you’re here because you’re researching where to go in Istanbul to really get it, to get at the heart of it.
While Istanbul's most famous bazaars are a bit more touristic than the Khan el-Khalili bazaar in Cairo, for example, they are still essential stops for the visitor.
The Egyptian Bazaar (Spice Bazaar) near Eminönü is a sensory overload: dried fruit, sumac, nuts, Turkish delight, and rosewater perfumes all under one roof.
The Grand Bazaar, founded in 1461, is one of the oldest covered markets in the world. It contains thousands of shops offering a dizzying array of essentially everything there ever was, from all manner of cheap imported goods, to incredible antique dealers who most likely have anything you could dream of, from any period of history.
And of course, beyond strictly shopping opportunities, the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul is where you can find ancient caravanserais and hidden tea courtyards if you know where to look.
Many years back, on the author's first visit to Istanbul, the gentleman at his hotel reception pointed out the way to the Grand Bazaar as follows:
“I could get there in 15 minutes,” he said. “But it will take you at least forty, because you will stop on the way to look at everything.”
Approach or leave near sundown, and you'll hear the Islamic prayer echo through the streets. And if you happen to be there in the rain, as the author once was, the sheets of falling water will transform the amplified audio eerily into a strange waves of what could almost be distorted electric guitars.
It's an impressive experience, and a private tour here can make all the difference.
Beyond the classic sites, modern travellers should explore Istanbul’s neighbourhoods: Balat’s crumbling charm, Karaköy’s galleries and design cafés, and the Asian side’s Kadıköy district, full of markets, meyhanes, and real local energy.
Taking the ferry across the Bosphorus is probably worth counting as one of the best things to do in Istanbul. A bit like taking the Peak Tram funnicular railway in Hong Kong, it costs little, lasts twenty minutes, and is a memory worth having which will make you fall in love with the city.
Culinary Crossroads: From Palace Kitchens to Street Stalls
As one of the world’s great culinary cities, Istanbul’s cuisine is a convergence of Anatolian, Balkan, Middle Eastern, and Mediterranean influences. Try köfte grilled over charcoal, börek stuffed with cheese and herbs, and meze spreads served with rakı in seaside meyhanes.
But some of the best food here comes from the street: simit rings warm from the bakery, roasted chestnuts in winter, fish sandwiches beside the Galata Bridge, and dürüm wraps sold at midnight by men who’ve been doing this since their grandfather’s time.
This is, by the way, the land of infinite kebab, just in case that catches your fancy as well. A feast of roast chickens or lamb or beef, in homemade fresh bread.
Here there are also the old palace traditions: Ottoman court cooking, for example, still preserved in certain restaurants that serve dishes like hünkar beğendi (sultan’s delight) or lamb stews spiced with cinnamon, almonds, and dried fruit.
The fact is that at some point, it’s highly likely that you’ll find yourself lured into a shop by one of the infinite windows containing a display of what must surely be infinite baklava or lokum, Turkish Delight. And like you’ll end up unintentionally spending a few hours just sipping tea and enjoying the world.
If you're interested in learning more about Slow Travel as an overall mantra for your exploration, we highly recommend reading this piece from The Good Trade.