P A L E R M O
PALERMO TRAVEL OVERVIEW
Here where the echoes of Norman kings meet the aroma of sizzling arancine (more on this in the cuisine section), Palermo stands as a cultural crossroads, shaped by millennia of conquests and trade.
Situated at the heart of the Mediterranean, Sicily’s capital is a tapestry of architectural splendor, vibrant street life, and culinary gusto.
Palermo offers a unique juxtaposition of grandeur and grit. From its opulent palaces and mosaics to its bustling street markets and sunlit piazzas, this is a city that thrives on contrasts.
The appeal of a large, lush island in the middle of the Mediterranean has proved irresistible to various powers through Sicily’s history, and there are traces here of the Phonecians, Greeks, Cartheginians, Romans, Moors, Normans, Spanish, Piedmontese, and finally the Allies during WWII, all of whom invaded Sicily and spent time around Palermo.
For the curious traveler, Palermo is more than a destination—it’s a textbook illustration of everything great about Sicily.
Here's what we think should form the core of your experience:
Norman Architecture & History
Palermo’s Norman legacy is well-preserved in its UNESCO-listed treasures. The Palatine Chapel, tucked within the Palazzo dei Normanni, is a shimmering jewel of Byzantine mosaics and Arabesque woodwork.
The nearby Cathedral of Palermo showcases a fascinating fusion of Gothic, Baroque, and Norman styles. Venturing a little further out for a half-day trip, Monreale’s Cathedral, perched on the city’s outskirts, is a blossom of golden mosaics framed with panoramic views.
The rest? A mix of crumbling golden baroque facades and hidden courtyards. Go forth and discover what of this world of dreams and hidden lore ye will.
Street Markets & Sicilian Life
Palermo’s markets—Vucciria, Ballarò, and Capo—are the heartbeat of the city, where the past mingles effortlessly with the present.
Here, amid vibrant stalls and echoing shouts, you’ll find an abundance of Sicilian flavors: sun-ripened tomatoes, from April to June, freshly caught swordfish from September to January, and, of course, cannoli, the most internationally treasured Sicilian dolci, or dessert.
These markets are very much the essence of Sicily: bright, loud, a bit wild, and impossibly beautiful in their calculated mayhem.
Cuisine & the Soul of Sicily
Palermo’s cuisine embodies its cultural heritage, a blend of Arab, Norman, and Spanish influences.
Savor panelle (chickpea fritters), or pasta con le sarde (sardine pasta) at a local trattoria.
And then there is arguably one of the most recognisably Sicilian dishes, certainly one of the author's favourites, the spectacular caponata: a lush mix of fried aubergine, celery, and tomato, with olives, onions, and sometimes capers, to be consumed with great big hunks of fresh naturally leavened bread.
In the midst of all this, enter one of the most quintessentially Italian bicker-fest-squabbles about the linguistic identity of an absolutely glorious Sicilian invention: the Arancina, pronounced 'ah-ran-chee-na'.
You see, the West of Sicily (which includes Palermo) insists that this deep-fried ball of rice containing the most choice bits of cheese/ham/mushrooms/other fun things is a feminine word, i.e. it ends with 'a' and is pluralised Arancine, pronounced 'ah-ran-chee-ney'.
The East of Sicily (which includes Catania, amongst other wonderful places), is deadly serious that the correct nomenclature is in fact Arancino, masculine, and pluralised Arancini, exactly like 'one cappucino, two cappucini, one espresso, five espressi, for example.
The two sides of the island have been engaged in this polite disagreement over this minor discrepancy—which has been known to come to blows at times—for donkey's years. Try and behave acceptably, if you can.
The good news, is that on a hot day, there is fresh icy lemon granita to be had from dozens of small stands all over Palermo for a small sum, along with plenty of homemade gelato shops.
And in the morning, at least once, the visitor should try a Brioscia, the small, glorious, buttery pastry that later inspired the French Brioche, though these two no longer have much in common. This is often served in Palermo traditionally for breakfast with pistachio gelato.
As a half-Roman, half Sardinian friend of the author’s once remarked in recognition of the True Form of this magnificent thing, nearly in tears, having tried his first Brioscia in Palermo after a lifetime of lesser examples everywhere else, not only in Italy, but the world:
“They lied to me.”
For the adventurous eater, there’s the city’s famous street food, such as stigghiola (grilled lamb intestines) or pani câ meusa (spleen sandwiches).
Pair it all with a glass of locally produced Nero d’Avola, and you have a meal that is as bold and impossibly sophisticated as Palermo itself.